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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.